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Rick The answers to these questions are as long as they are short! I can tell you what I did, but I'm not sure it will help you in your situation. I stripped all my interior paint back to bare metal using Nitromors paint stripper, washed it down with water, dried it, cleaned it all with a wire brush zip wheel in an angle grinder, sprayed it with etch primer, high build primer filler and finally top coat. I removed the carpet glue and (one of the worst jobs of the lot) the underseal/bitumen panels on the trans tunnel... MORE
Listers - Finishing getting the exterior of my Midget tub stripped and primed and about to move onto the interior and trunk areas. Whats the best way to go about it? The trunk is fairly dirty with light rust scattered around and there is a dirty sludge in the cracks and crevices, whats the best way to remove it and paint the interior? I doubt I'd be able to get all the rust and won't be able to strip everything to bare metal so I'll be leaving areas of the original paint. What should I paint the interior/floor with?... MORE
Alan It doesn't look like it. Horler says - ...and was replaced entirely by a Triumph sourced steering rack from January 1972. The new unit required revised mounting brackets which now carried an angled split line for the clamping caps, the new brackets being black-painted steel. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 32125... MORE
David Wasn't the Frogeye steering rack exactly the same as the Morris Minor one except turned upside down? Nigel have a not a you do Terry changed at the rack's correctly. If rack? Of brake steering arms down! - "amukdigiphoto" 32124... MORE
Yes, but it's this way: RHD Frogeye, same rack as the LHD Morris!! And ve rse visa! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32126... MORE
Alan, I think if you swap everything over, including stub axles/kingpins, brakes and steering rack, it should be straightforward (assuming the Frogeye steering column fits on the rack pinion ;-) ) Regards David "David Jacobs" 32120... MORE
Yeah. Im going to have to find some other type of shoes to wear strictly for driving my Midget. My MR2 has come along way since those pics. 90% of the car has been painted now. All thats is left to paint is the aftermarket front and rear airdam and then reassembly. If you look at the third pic youll see that Iv put a driver side air vent. The first gen MR2s only had it on the right side. Iv also relocated the gas filler to the B pillar of both sides of the car and installed Datsun... MORE
Alan I can't comment on the Frogeye ones, but I can on the 72 ones (assuming there was no change from the 71 - 72 model year) as I've recently had them off my car. They were definitely NOT plated in any way. I know because I cleaned mine up with a wire zip wheel in my angle grinder. They are a natural finish, of some form of aluminimum or alum alloy casting. They're definitely NOT steel - take one off and pick it up - its very light - no way is it steel. And the 'yellow' finish... MORE
Hey all. Yes, it's Graziano. Frankenstein@... is my "dummy" address for yahoo groups. Please respond directly as I'm on the digest. Midget 1500 with twin HS4s, 285 cam, .30 over, head work, 13 row oil cooler, and headers.. As I mentioned a while back, I'm having trouble with the car getting hot here in Tx, which is causing vapor lock. I'm re-installing the original 3 row staggered radiator, and standard water pump with an electric fan. 1) should I wire the fan straight to the ignition so that it runs when the key is in the "on" position whether... MORE
I am on the point of summoning up the courage to replace my Mk IV Sprite's tatty old hood with new fabric. A couple of questions for anyone who has already done this: 1. What sort of glue should I use to fix the fabric to the header rail? 2. Is there anywhere I can get the grey paint for the hood frame? Thanks in advance. Tede "tede4uk" 32070... MORE
Curt, This information is worth exactly what you are paying for it....nothing! I seem to remember that straight cut gears are always very noisy. That would explain noise in 1, 2 and 3. 4th or top gear is straight through and are not loading on any gears so it would be much quieter. If it was loud in top gear, that would indicate a problem. Cheers, Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 32045... MORE
Hang on. This is a daily used car. 30,000miles in 3 years since full rebuild ALL new brake parts at that time Regular maintenance - like every 2 weeks I grease the kingpins, top up dashpots etc.etc. Using silicon brake fluid and flush and replace that every year - although its due another change about now. I do a 80 mile daily round trip to work, in fast, heavy traffic conditions. My life depends on this car being in good condition. I started this "thread" to see what other experience might be out there. I don't actually think that... MORE
If that so, then why does the tag on the door frame of my 76 say "2225 GVW"? Matthew Pfeil "Matthew Pfeil" 31968... MORE
OK, time for some fun. Anyone here race their MG in solo II? Stories and suggestions would be appreciated. I've done AMA Motorcycle Road Racing, track days in my Beretta, and raced a friends 969 a couple of times when he was laid up injured. I was just checking out the rules for MGs, and they look to be in a fairly fun class for Solo II, and the very minimal prep work makes it quite feasable (and the fact that I own a B and a Midget makes this more fun). Any thoughts on the following: 1. Battery... MORE
Damien, Unless you are planning on replacing the needle roller bearings in the Hardy Spicer joints, I would not attempt too dismantle them as it will be virtually impossible to do so without damaging the bearing caps or grease seals. Clean the UJs in situ, taking care not to de-grease the bearings, and then paint the tubular part of the propshaft only. Guy "Guy Weller" 31950... MORE
Hi all, I have just started on a project to restore a 1976 1500 MG Midget, the car was given to me last weekend and it was already stripped down. The first thing I want to do is to refurbish and re-paint all of the old parts that will be underneath the car, including the rear axle, prop shaft and steering rack. I started on the prop shaft yesterday by clearing all the flaky rust off and getting it ready to treat with Jenolite before using some smooth hammerite on it, as I have not yet received my workshop... MORE
Neil, Welcome back..does that mean you are just a "fair weather friend"? On your tail lights, you did not say if they worked before. If they did, keep it simple, pull the bulbs and check the filaments and sand paper the contacts in the socket and on the bulb. Check for 12 volts at the sockets when the brakes are on. If none, work backwards till you find it. Cheers, Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 31931... MORE
Neil Look under the hood at the brake/clutch pedal box. Your brake light switch should be mounted to the outside of the box in front of the brake pedal...Im pretty sure. Mike mk2sprite@... 31912... MORE
Quoted price for new bumper fixing plates is under =A312 each so I have ord ered two, not worth the effort of fixing up the old ones. A new spring bar is only =A314 so I have ordered one of those as well. With it all new hop efully it will all be correct and I will be able to take correct measuremen ts and let you know. Now I have it all off I cannot check the position of the bumper, it will ha ve to wait until it is reassembled with the new bits. Terry "terry.isherwood" 31906... MORE
Hello again to the group I left for the winter. Now that spring weather is back in Iowa, I am rejoining the collective wisdom of the group. My brake lights do not work. Taillights do come on when the headlight switch is turned on. Looking up the wiring diagram, I assume the first thing that could be giving me trouble is the brake switch. Where is it located? No switch located on the brake pedal as on my other vehicles. Thanks Neil "Neil Hernan" 31909... MORE
Terry, Mine's 45mm on the (RH) driver's side and 40mm on the passenger side - it's obvious that the spring bar on mine is also distorted side-to-side - you can fit a thumb in the gap between the tip of the bumper blade and the wing on the RH side and barely a little finger on the LH side. Do the tips of the bumper come as far as the wheelarch on yours, looking from the side? The spring bar is a good place to start checking, as they're not all that strong, and if the car does have... MORE
Hi 1972 chrome bumper Midget. I suspect that a previous owner has nudged the front and pushed the front bumper back but I have to work out what is disto rted if anything. Can someone please nip out and measure the distance between the top of the front bumper and the curved bit of the grill trim above where the fixing bo lts are. I have 3 cm and 2.5 cm on my car. Also how far in front of the front valance do the bumper fixing 'rods' prot rude. I have 4.8 and 5 cm measured from the... MORE
Jim My bushings came from Moss, and yes they're pretty tricky to fit. I ended up widening out the two areas the ends of the wishbone go into on the frame, putting one bush into each inside of the wishbone arm, fitting the arms to the frame then pushing through the second bushing through the hole in the frame - then the bolts. Seemed to work after some jiggling about. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 31873... MORE
Well, Jens...lot of variables here including outside air temp and the clearances to which the engine was built. Mineral oils are where it's at for break- in, Jens. Synthetics (or partial synthetic) should not be used as they reduce rather than promote, fricition "Breaking in" means friction between parts and you'll get a lot LESS of this with the more "slippery" synthetic and partial synthetics. Mineral oils aren't as slippery so friction would he higher, thus accelerating the break-in process. Most likely, since you've switched to mineral oil, the break-in process is actually continuing and not really over, miles... MORE
Hi Nelson, I have some AC rebuild kits for the mechanical pump. NOS, but who knows how fresh and good they are. Contact me off list if you're interested Another way of going and this is something my Morris friends do but for another reason. The Morris pump is mounted on the firewall in full view of anyone wanting to see it. Some want to have a pristine, all original looking engine bay, but prefer some reliability. So they mount an electronic Facet/Purolator fuel pump near the fuel tank and leave the old pump in the engine compartment with... MORE
