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yes, I meant just to buy the glass and DIY - it's reasonably easy to do yourself. Regards David PS Wes, did you get the scanned article I emailed? I wasn't sure if it would go ok, as it was quite large "David Jacobs" 26727... MORE
-If its of intrest a lot of the midget/sprite windsreens are in fact made in canada,as for fitting them you are better taking your time and doing it yourselve ,along with a new rubber.The auto-windscreen people just pick a dam silly price out of there head to charge simply they dont want to fit them and a lot of them dont have a clue how to. wes "wesley5060" 26726... MORE
have you tried regular auto-windscreen people? you can still get new glass in the UK and at pretty reasonable cost, so I'd've thought you would be able to in the US, too. Regards David "David Jacobs" 26723... MORE
unless you're from the UK, in which case there *were* sidelights, but no side-marker lights (we're going to quiz you all on wind-wings and quarter lights next, so I hope you were all paying attention!) Regards David "David Jacobs" 26722... MORE
Nomenclature problem? Side lights are the small front lights in tandem with the direction indicators below the main headlight. "Jeremy Cogman" 26724... MORE
So you are saying if I am in the UK "side lights" are on the "front" of the car and are what we in the US would call "parking/ turn signal" lights which are located just below the headlights and the lights on the sides of the front and rear fenders are "markerlights." So . . . I am safe saying there were no "marker lights" on a 62 Midget, and if there were they would not flash. I've already had my lesson in wind-wings . . . was it a crime for me to drive on the M-4... MORE
Due to an unfortunate accident in my garage, the windscreen in my 76 midget became damaged. So now I am in need of a replacement. I am turning to the list as my local wreckers have no such glass. Can anyone help me out with this? All I am in need of is the glass. Any help would be appreciated. Matthew Pfeil 76 MG Midget 65 Ford F100 "matthew pfeil" 26716... MORE
Ole, Well . . . thing is, that I know of, there were no side lights on a 62 midget so are you sure this is the correct model year you have? Don "Don May" 26707... MORE
I am in the process of rebuilding my 1500 engine. I am looking for some feedback on what is the best way to Pin aq thrust washer in place. I have read some papers that talk about using three 1/8" roll pins, I have not seen any feedback on how well this works. My second question is related and it involves machining down the rear bearing housing to accept a second thrust washer that is held in place using three brass screws. The idea sounds good but what is the long term feedback. (see http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/1080/thrustwasherinstall.h tml for more information)... MORE
Damm, That's one think that bothers me about these lists, very few people will really take the time to give you the information that you really need. Your question of "if it was converted to neg. earth is there anything I should check to make sure it was done correctly?" Yes, the tach. As per Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y. restoration of the MG Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite: pg 222: Remove the tachometer from the car by undoing the two knurled nuts and taking off the lock washers and clips. "Robert Webb" 26692... MORE
Brandon Not sure if this will help answer your question, but it will put things into perspective for you. The change over point for RHD cars from positive to negative earth was at HAN9-72041 and GAN4-60460, November 1967. This involved a change of rev counter, wiper motor, fuel guage with voltage stabiliser. The Temperature gauge changed to C-N-H graduation. Now I'm not sure when the change-over came for LHD cars, but it must have been around the same time. So it looks like from your VIN number it was originally a Negative Earth car. The only real way of... MORE
Hi guys I've just re-assembled my kingpin/stub axles and I must say I'm rather pleased with them. One question though which I'm a little unsure of. There are two small rubber seals that go on the stub axle. One is a square cross-section seal and one is a round cross-section seal. Now it's my understanding (and I may well be wrong) that both of these seals go into the lower part of the stub axle. The square cross-sectioned one goes on top of the lower part of the stub axle, where the dust tube sits on, and the round... MORE
The "frame" rails the are just in front of the seats and parallel to the tunnel do they get covered in vinyl? As the carpet kit does not have enough material to cover them and the car did not have original carpet. Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26673... MORE
nice looking machine, and from http://www.geocities.com/fiberfabcars/jamaican.html I learned it even has such features as "Doors that Open" and "Windshield Wipers"! David "David Jacobs" 26667... MORE
Dear List, I have been offered an MG Midget but do not have much data except for few chassis, engine and model numbers. Can someone shed some light on this? year, specs or whatever you can add will be appreciated! The chassis number is MAA 002909, Engine S1104341-A, Model (body?) BMG12. Cheers Martin "Martin Aubert" 26659... MORE
Ed You do make me smile and that has to be a good thing :o) I took your advice and enlisted the help of a next door neighbour, and we tackled it together. Me holding the steering rack down and heating the nut and him whacking the locknut with a cold chisel. It still took about 20 mins of heating before it decided to move! The locknut on the other side was so seized solid, it decided to break in half before it would turn! No matter same result - both locknuts off an undamaged TRE's and tie rods.... MORE
I wrote the following post thinking about rostyles, but after I looked at the original post I realized you are asking about early steel wheels. Oh well, some of it is still pertinent, so here it is: I've had success using a combination of chemical stripper and sand blasting. I've used the enviro-friendly stripper (letting it sit for three hours) then I hosed off the residue and the remaining paint blasted off quickly at fairly low pressure. I agree that removing the tire it the smart thing to do. Then self etching primer, then a light coat of medium... MORE
If you leave the bodies natural they will look horrid within a year, especially the rears. Frost or Eastwood do what amounts to a metal varnish i.e. a clear coating or you could paint them in aluminium paint or a light coating of 'clear' waxoyl. As the rears are rarely seen I'd be tempted to paint them. The fronts will fair better in the relatively dry anvironment of the engine bay but very minimum I'd wipe them over with oil every so often. "Jeremy Cogman" 26635... MORE
Timster... This IS the way to go...bead blasting (glass)or the finest media you can get so as not to overly "pit" the surface as it's cleaned. Hit them with a metal cleaner and some zinc-phosphate primer then topcoat with a silver of your choice. Or, you can go all the way and have the blasted wheels "powder coated". This costs more but, it's a beautiful, tough, easily cleaned, long-lasting treatment. Alterntively, if not powder coated, a good tough, glossy paint is made by Hammerite. I've used this stuff in the past...it's pretty damn good and is what I would... MORE
no, ours are centre-laced (look at a TC's wheel for example of outside laced) It's difficult to compare the offset on centre-lock wires, because they don't have the same flat face that a bolt-on wheel has, as a datum point. Do Dayton say where they are measuring from? And will they exchange them/refund your money, if they don't fit? The 'direct replacement' 4.5"ers aren't exactly the same as stock, as stock are 4", so you are already starting off from a different position. I think the only foolproof way is to check them on the car, with tyres on,... MORE
Alan Really helpful advice, thank you. I think what I'll do is, order up some TRE's and then take your advice and =3D=0D grind off parallels on the existing TRE's, that should give me something to lock =3D=0D in the vice while I attack the locknut. Its interesting that Moss do not list the tie rod's as being available, min =3D=0D d you, they don't list the locknut's as being available either, except in the Spri =3D=0D te Mk1 Midget MkII brochure - interesting. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26610... MORE
Nigel, et al Nut splitters do work , if you don't buy cheap ones , low cost is good - ch eap is not. Same with all tools really. When replacing track rod ends etc there's nothing wrong with using a small amount of anti seize grease or LM (Low Melting temp.) (I like LM10 )I also use WD40 if the thread is trapped at each end and is virtually air tight so the WD40 doesn't evaporate. It's the mechanical stretching of the threads that lock parts together. An excellent article by a BMW owner association member ( the... MORE
2 other options to remove the lock-nut: - Dremel with a cut-off wheel: cut the nut partially on two sides, then use a chissel (used this technique often by now with 100% success without damaging any threads!) - Weld a long bar to the nut I prefer the first option. It will cost you 1 or 2 cut-off wheels, but will be succesfull. Even if you accidently cut a bit to deep, it probably makes so little damage to the threads you won't have to replace the damaged part. Good luck, Eeg. Eeg.Oberije@... 26599... MORE
Nigel, When being brutal with the steering rods / arms make sure you don't bend th em. Another effective way of making the track rod end flats useful is to grind the flats parallel and obviously closer together to be a good fit in a good open ended spanner. You should be changing them as a matter of course any way at only =A36:50 or each, so don't be afraid of damaging the TR ends per se. Alan Aside Track rod ends and steering arms (Thomson steering joints - trade name), Mo re items made on the Leamington site... MORE
Hey, I could be reading this wrong but I think this job is a three wrench/vise thing. You must hold the tie rod in the vise - a wrench on the tie rod end and then a wrench to break free the lock nut. The lock nut locks the end not the rod. Get what I mean? Jon That's how I do it anyway. I've got this far without a nut splitter, I think I'll persevere without one, and hold it back as a last resort. Thanks again for the advice. Nigel "Jon Paschke" 26614... MORE
