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Easiest way I found was to centre punch the break bolt, drill the end with a suitable size drill and use a stud removal tool. It is rather like a threading tap, except that it has a VERY course and shallow left hand helix running down it which causes it to pull into and tighten into the drilled hole, where it lock and then carry on unscrewing until the bolt is out. It only took me about 7minutes to remove all the screws. R. "Roger Stinson" 23607... MORE
Cap'n Well thanks for those kind words of encouragement! I can understand why 'bare metal resprays' cost so much in a pro shop, and why many people opt to merely flat down existing paint and paint over the top. By stripping back to bare metal, you do get the best result possible, but that comes at a price - and that is a lot more stages and a lot more investment in time; and this is just to get the bare metal back to a state that can be sprayed! There's still the spraying, flatting and filling stages to... MORE
After stripping off the front end outer metal work and cleaning the engine compartment I discovered there is a crack in the transmission bell housing. The tab like area at the top of the clutch bell housing where the top two bolts are located has a horizontal crack below them.. It does not appear to be a major structural problem once the transmission bell housing is bolted on as all other areas and bolts are sound. It looks like an easy in place weld job. Is it possible to weld the aluminum housing material? Some PO strangeness as usual... MORE
to stop it engaging, you'll have to get the lock off the column - not an easy job - I've had to do it on 3 different cars :-( The easiest way is to get the column off the car completely and drill out the break-head bolts, though it's sometimes possible to use a sharp small centre-punch and unscrew the bolts by hitting the punch in the correct place. Once you've got the lock off, you can either mount it elsewhere so it doesn't engage with the column, weld a small plate over the slot in the column so... MORE
Alan, My point was that many of the products such as this, familiar to yourself, are not available in the UK under the names you are so used to using. You describe it admirably, but still don't gve a formulation from which one could find the equivalent product here under a different name. I guess that too is the Mystery! Presumably patented and top secret. Hmmm, Maybe I should start an import business of products "As recommended by Web Spridgeteers world wide" Guy "Guy Weller" 23589... MORE
Thanks for the tips David. Now that I think about it I think I am to fault for the problem. I towed it home with the rear wheels on the dolly and the steering locked in center position. The California freeways, that in sections are fast approaching third word conditions, could have been too much jarring on the steering lock. 880 between Hayward and Berkeley is some of the worst freeway surface I have driven on in the states. Live and learn. Don "Don May" 23598... MORE
So that is a key release . . . sure happy it does not work. What a stupid place to put it, where you can't push it with out contorting yourself into unnatural positions.... The car is in the back yard and on a non-op permit so at least the steering lock will not lock on me while driving on the road until I fix it . . . NOW another question . . . can I defeat the durn thing. I do not want a steering wheel lock, that is what club sticks are for if one is... MORE
On my new 73 when I turn the wheel with the key on and steering lock supposedly disengaged I can hear and feel the steering wheel lock detents clicking and feel a slight catching as I turn the wheel as if the lock is not fully disengaged. Any thoughts as to what may be causing this. And what is the small chrome button just under the key slot for? Don "Don May" 23590... MORE
Guy Thanks for this - most helpful. I did reply to your earlier post but for some reason it didnt go through, and I havent got round to re-doing it. Thanks for the offer of the repair panels, I think we did agree that, unforuntately, I'd already finished the side that they would have fitted and it was in fact the other side repair panels that I needed - comes under the general heading of sod's law I think. So the sequence is - phosphoric acid on the rusty bits, acid etch primer, filler, primer, top coat? Do you... MORE
Nigel, What I know from reading and listening to others: The bare metal can be sealed by applying expoxy primer. Polyester filler / bondo can be applied on top of the expoxy primer! Since filler doesn't seal the metal, moisture CAN get through and makes your shiny metal rust again (even before you started spraying the top-coats...). Area's that are not completely rust free can be primered with some rust-stabilising primer / paint (corroless / owatrol) or phosphoric accid (ospho) before applying the epoxy primer. Advantage of this working order / method is that wet-sanding the subsequent surfacer /... MORE
Hi guys At last I've almost finished the paint stripping/underseal stripping. What a boring, tedious, monotonous job that was! By far the worst I've had to do so far and I'm so pleased its now almost finished. This does now bring into focus the filling/spraying aspect. All of the car has now been taken back to bare metal, and I intend to spray an acid etch primer coat on top of the bare metal, before the primer coats. Now, the question is, should I put filler on before the etch primer or afterwards? Second question is, there is still... MORE
the glass is replaced by removing and disassembling the screen frame (which presumably you'll be doing anyway, if you replace one of the posts) The setscrews holding it to the body are up under the corners of the dashboard. There are three or four phillips head screws at each corner plus the centre stay, holding the frame together. You might find you need to drill out the screws but you can get stainless steel replacements. Try and make a note of which length screws come out of which holes - a problem for the unwary is to put too... MORE
Ok folks I'm new to the MG money pit ! :) I need a windshield post for my 79 MG midget, and can any one tell me how to go about replaceing the glass. The next problem is engine overheating. That is a LONG story but I'm glad to share it with any one willing to listen. Lastly is body work. I need some help here too. I have been able to beat the prince of darkness ( Lucas ) at his own game hahaha. Also anyone out there need a tester for Triumph TR type fuel guages? I... MORE
Bill, I happened to come across this on the Moss web site last week. http://www.mossmotors.com/MemberServices/TechTips/TechTipsArticle.aspx?TechTipID=9&ModelID=50000&SubcompCode=P000 Technical Tips & Assistance AH Sprite/MG Midget << Tech Tips << Categories << Articles Audible Directional Flasher Frank Lindauer Atlanta, GA Here's a tech tip for those of us whose hearing is not what it used to be when we were younger, or those of us who are younger and just can't hear the directional flasher or see the flasher indicator light, especially with a top down in daylight. Since the time delay, even when set at max, does not give a long flashing... MORE
On a '75 I would suspect the fuel pump diaphragm may have a tear in it. At higher speeds it would result in insufficient fuel supply to the carbs; fuel level would be low and would result in a weak fuel mixture. Take the top off the fuel pump and check the condition inside. Guy "Guy Weller" 23549... MORE
Hi All I have a 79 midget and have to no lights.The column switch is very loose and needs replaceing. I got a new lucas switch from my local import parts store. I paid $98.00 for it.Is this a fair price? I am planing on putting it in tomorow morning.Will I need a puller to get the steering wheel off. And if anyone has any other helpfull hints or sugestions please let me know. Thank you very much Rick "mtman19552002" 23533... MORE
sorry, the only measurements I have seen are for use with original dealer body checking gauge sets, so you're out of luck unless you happen to have one of those hanging around! You could try marking your own datum points on the centre-line of the car (start by making diagonal lines from fixed points left and right to accurately find the centre) then measure where the shock absorber mounting holes come relative to this centre. One other thing, have you checked the top trunnions to make sure they're the same each side? Regards David "David Jacobs" 23522... MORE
Just make a tow bar. It is simple and cost next to nothing. First a piece of 1" angle iron cut to about 3.5'. then drill two holes in it at the distance part that the front bumper studs are. Also hole must be big enought for the bumper studs to fit through. Then get a 4" "U" chanel about 4' long and weld them together to make a "T". Add acouple to small straps from the ends of the angle to the "u" neer the far end. Then drill holes in the far end of the "U" chanel... MORE
Does anyone have the measurements between the 6 points on the shocks on a 1975 midget. I live in a very small town and the body shops here don't have any type of information on mg's. My midget has more problems than I first thought. I replaced the negative camber bushings in the lower a-arms with a new set of stock ones, checked the distance between the lower a-arms after buying a shop manual from Moss, checked the spindle, and removed and checked the shock mounts to see if they had been played with and still have too much... MORE
Does anyone have the measurements between the 6 points on the shocks on a 1975 midget. I live in a very small town and the body shops here don't have any type of information on mg's. My midget has more problems than I first thought. I replaced the negative camber bushings in the lower a-arms with a new set of stock ones, checked the distance between the lower a-arms after buying a shop manual from Moss, checked the spindle, and removed and checked the shock mounts to see if they had been played with and still have too much... MORE
I came across a really good deal on a used set of Minilite replicas with 175x70x13's mounted on them. The guy let me take one home and check to see if there would be any clearance problems. On the front, there is absolutely no doubt that they will run without rubbing. Lock to lock there is no touching. On the back, they roll just fine but, I noticed that there is only about 1/4 to 1/2 inch clearance between the inboard sidewall and the rear eliptical spring. With my stock wheels and the little 155x80x13's there is about an... MORE
Biff, Thanks. I checked everything you mentioned and Wham!, the dimmer switch on the floor had a loose connection. It looked like it was hooked up but when I wiggled the center wire around, the lights came on. I cleaned all three connections and the headlights are on! Thanks a bunch, Jack "austinbud2002" 23412... MORE
HELP! I hate to bug you just when I have a problem but here goes: Every other electrical light and accessory on my MKII Sprite is working EXCEPT the headlights. Turn signals are good, parking and tail lamps are bright, instrument lights are fine, just no headlights. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks, Jack "austinbud2002" 23410... MORE
Jack, Things to check: Headlight(s) are they grounded High/Low beam switch not letting current through Bad light master switch, ie, headlight position not working but running/parking lights okay Bad/coroded bullet connector(s) in the headlight wiring Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 Sprite 'Ole Gray' in "The Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie' under restoration http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff Jones" 23411... MORE
I have been trying to find a glass front turn signal lamp for my '66 midget with absolutly no luck (junkyards-ebay-catalogs...parking lots "hehe", if anyone can help would greatly appreciate it. "brawlers88" 23371... MORE
