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Decided to MOT the frogeye for one last summer before it gets the shell fully sorted. As it stands it needs a tyre, the horn fixing and the handbrake adjusting. Nothing really major. However the reason the handbrake needs adjusting is not because of wear in the system or a starched cable, but the bracket on the axle bends over time and needs knocking out with a hammer. This had to be done at the last MOT it had (1999). The bend occurs where the cable passes though the bracket, has anyone else had this problem and if so... MORE
The Purpose of Tools HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing leather goods. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on... MORE
Willliam, FWIW-I bought an 1975 for $500 and have replaced virtually every mechanical component. I found and freshly rebuilt engine through the MG Club of Chicagoland classifieds for $632 (engine and freight). It need a backplate and dizzy which I pirated from the original. The special designation to the best of my knowledge had little to do with performance and a lot to do with creature comfort ...radio, carpet appearance package etc. My estimation is that the $600 is OK but you'll need to do more than you think. It will take longer and cost more. Rob C 1975... MORE
I'm looking at buying a 1976 MG Midget special 57K with the 1500cc engine it has the Webber carb upgrade new starter and alternator but the connecting rod bolt came out and trashed the lower end of the engine they said it need a crank connecting rod and the block needed to be machined. How much would it cost to rebuild vs. replace with new/used engines???? also what are the specs for this engine stock and with the Webber carb kit??? besides that the car is decent shape minor rust (not bad surface only on seams)and there are a... MORE
Nope. That round headed bolt just holds the spring leaves together. If you've removed the u-bolt and the two other bolts (which thread into the spring top plate) there is nothing else holding the sprng except rust. Give it a whack, then slide it out. "joe blxfstz" 32680... MORE
Another removal challenge. I have removed the nuts from the u-bolts holding the rear spring and the two bolts that are next to each other and closer to the front of my Sprite. In drawings of the spring assembly there is a single bolt shown between the u-bolt and the pair of bolts but all I can see on the car is a hole with something up inside it. I cannot figure out how to remove this bolt since it has no exposed head. This is the same on both sides of the car. I am the original owner... MORE
I had got the two bolts on the outside and the third one at the front of the footwell was so corroded that it came apart itself. The state of that bolt hole has led me to worry a little about putting on the inner sill. I am thinking of just replacing the footwell plate fully so that no more rusty bits are left there. I am going to have to replace the door pillar anyway so may as well do it all!! Abestea "abestea" 32659... MORE
Have you actually got the wing off? as reading you e-mail it would appear you have only taken three of the six bolts that hold the rear part of the wing on!. In the foot well there are (or should be) 4 bolts, three are at the door pillar end of the wing, and there is a fourth at the front of the foot well. Then there is one at the top of the win in the guttering looking down from the top of the car. and there is one final one that you will find a little awkward,... MORE
Hi All, I just wanted to rant about the shoddy condition of the Midget that i am restoring at the moment. This is my first Midget i have ever owned and have always wanted to have an MG. So I purchased one about two months ago which was mechanically sound ( apart from the clutch) but is a bit shoddy bodywork wise. I ordered the replacement sills (inner & Outer) and started work today removing bits for the job. So where does the frustration come in to it you ask. A weekend spent taking a car apart is 'fun'... MORE
Hi All, After a lot of problems with not getting any mail from the group to my hotmail address, I have decided to re-subscribe with aol. Aparently mail to and from _badgerleader@... _ (mailto: badgerleader@... ) was bouncing. I could neither send or recieve mail, and couldn't rectify it. It is still an active address, and I have received mail from individuals, but not through the list. Even using a new hotmail address proved fruitless. So, here I am back again after about a week without midget/sprite talk. I have put together an on-line photo albumn of our cars,... MORE
Jim and Cap'n Rob, Sorry for the bit of delay in response. The dimensions of the new cover are precisely the same as the old, only difference being the air breather tube is straight rather than angled. Not a big deal. As Jim mentions, the chrome fasteners that come with the cover are tubes, but wider than the standard screw in tube type as listed in VB, pg 66 (items 6-9). You can see this entire package by looking at item #2481129573 on eBay, which is currently on auction. I have an extra 1500 on an engine stand in... MORE
Paul, I bought a matched set, 2 doors and boot lock for my '71 Sprite. I then dismantled the ignition lock cylinder and swapped the little tumbler plates around until it matched the new key set. Fiddely, and I think of the 7 little brass plates I ended up having to file 2 to match the key after swapping the other 5 around . You need to be very patient! I then find that in practice I never lock the doors anyway as there really dosn't seem any point - I rarerly have the hood up, and if I... MORE
Hi, I am looking to purchase some tools to go with my 1965 MKII Midget, but I am not sure whether I need Whitworth spanners, AF spanners or both. I did find in the driver's handbook a very short list of tools that came with the car, as will as a list of additional tools available as a supplement. Also, the same supplemental tool list is shown at the Midget&Sprite Club at the following URL: http://www.mgcars.org.uk/midgetspriteclub/sprite/spritetools.htm I note the list includes AF Spanners rather than Whitworth. Does this mean that my 1965 car would not have hardware requiring Whitworth... MORE
Don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but older grosse jets worked quite well. However, newer ones for some reason don't stand up to their reputation.I tossed three of them from my triple-carbed big Healey when I found the "two balls" were sticking and not shutting off the fuel flow. Rick HealeyRic2@... 32607... MORE
Hi, Peter... I am no 1500 guy but I've been following the thread on the discussion of longer studs needed for certain valve covers produced for the 1500 Spit motor. I just came across something in my TriumphTune performance manual which apparently deals with this. TriumphTune (TT) Part #105123 "On late 1500 models after '78, longer studs will be required wherein tube nuts are fitted as standard" This pertains to valve covers, all using the standard gasket. Sounds like what you may be looking for? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32602... MORE
Hi Drew, My BMC workshop manual for my Mk2 Sprite gives the working load as 750 lb. and the spring rate as 271 lb. in. FWIW they state that the free length is 9.4 in. and the mean coil diameter is 3.625 in. Nelson HAN6L11639 "Nelson Wittstock" 32589... MORE
link to the same item I purchased on ebay. This one is up for sale now. It comes complete with the screws and cap. I had to purchase the gasket separately. Ended up paying just under $100 for all, considering shipment from across the pond. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&category=27380&item=2481005041&rd=1 Ed, I took a look at your website. Good site. Looked at your page on stud removers. Pictures are good, but what about the price? Assume you are not the provider, but sublet the sale of these items to someone else? Still planning my attack on addressing this stud issue. Pete "Pete... MORE
link to the same item I purchased on ebay. This one is up for sale now. It comes complete with the screws and cap. I had to purchase the gasket separately. Ended up paying just under $100 for all, considering shipment from across the pond. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&category=27380&item=2481005041&rd=1 Ed, I took a look at your website. Good site. Looked at your page on stud removers. Pictures are good, but what about the price? Assume you are not the provider, but sublet the sale of these items to someone else? Still planning my attack on addressing this stud issue. Pete Jim... MORE
Jim we bought a 2nd hand hardtop for the MGF and it was fitted until last week . It now occupies our daughters bedroom !!! the garage and sheds are for midget and sprite stuff !!!! The midgets hardtop is hidden under some shrubs in the garden !!!! I was amazed at how much noise deadening and extra rearward visibility you get with a hardtop relative to a soft top. Having a cream coloured interior lining makes everything appear lighter and less claustrophobic than the black soft top. The MGF tends to do more miles commuting in winter when... MORE
Thanks much for the input. I thought about replacing with longer studs as Paul suggests, but getting to the securing nut at the base is a really tight fit with the rockers there. Can't get an open end or box wrench in there to loosen it. I would really like to avoid removing rockers to do this. So I'm thinking more along the lines of what Jim was suggesting. I may have to cut down the existing stud and retap to accomodate the extender nut. As it is now, with the new cover, the top of he stud is... MORE
Thanks much for the input. I thought about replacing with longer studs as Paul suggests, but getting to the securing nut at the base is a really tight fit with the rockers there. Can't get an open end or box wrench in there to loosen it. I would really like to avoid removing rockers to do this. So I'm thinking more along the lines of what Jim was suggesting. I may have to cut down the existing stud and retap to accomodate the extender nut. As it is now, with the new cover, the top of he stud is... MORE
Thanks much for the input. I thought about replacing with longer studs as Paul suggests, but getting to the securing nut at the base is a really tight fit with the rockers there. Can't get an open end or box wrench in there to loosen it. I would really like to avoid removing rockers to do this. So I'm thinking more along the lines of what Jim was suggesting. I may have to cut down the existing stud and retap to accomodate the extender nut. As it is now, with the new cover, the top of he stud is... MORE
Could you find or fabricate a coupling for a short extension if you don't care to replace the entire stud? You could then use a cut off piece of bolt to get the length you need. Good luck, Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 32514... MORE
Hi Pete, Looking at the 1500 parts book, it appears that the valve cover stud does nothing but hold the valve cover. It's not like the rocker arm studs. So why don't you go out and buy a longer stud to do the job. When I need a longer bolt, I go get one!!! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32518... MORE
My rear brake drums have been turned many miles back but they show some slight scoring again now. It would probably be a good idea to have them touched up. Is there a rule of thumb for how much can be removed and still have a useable drum? Nelson 62 Mk 2 Sprite "witstock7" 32497... MORE
