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Yes, you have to remove the nut, then pull the hub and bearing off. On some cars you can pull them off by hand; on others they are tighter and you'll need a puller. "joe blxfstz" 33548... MORE
Hi, I'm currently in the middle of stripping the rear axle on my '76 1500 midget. The brake drums are off, as are the shoes, slave cylinder and the half-shafts are out, im trying to get the bearing/hub section off so that I can get the backing plate from the brakes off the axle to clean it up and replace the bolts. What is the best way of doing this? Do I just need a 1" 7/8 spanner and just undo it or is there an easier way that I just haven't worked out yet? Thanks in advance Damien... MORE
Hi Lee, If you found a couple of them pitted, then in all likelyhood, the camshaft is damaged. BTW, typically when you are removing tappets and there is no damage to them they sould go back into the same holes they came out of. No mix 'em up here!!. A rattle on acceleration and a rattle on deceleration, doesn't sound like a tappet noise. Tappets are under the same load, accelerating, decelerating, coasting, at idle, etc. That noise doesn't change much. Sounds like bearing problems. Mains and rods are suspect here. Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33551... MORE
Bob, I would modify this just a bit...deport the UN in it's entirety......to France, Russia and/or Germany. Either one of them (or all) deserve it a lot more than we do. We haven't the brains or the national cajones today, to take care ourselves a la "Charity Begins At Home". We truly have been "dumbed down" the last 40 years or so and far worse, we've become "feminized" (overly sensitive and "enabling") to those who are too uneducated to "appreciate". And so, we've become the International whipping boy. We obviously no longer know how to fight and win a... MORE
Never know where a bugeye will show up. Check out this site. http://www.comics.com/comics/luann/archive/luann-20040813.html Don "Don May" 33537... MORE
Hi As I was investigating a "clunk" on my '79 Midget I found the lower wishbone assembly fractured at the lower fulcrum pin. So ok, I go to the garage to get one to replace it with and out of 3 sets of front suspension none of them has the holes for the sway bar.. I guess all my stuff is pretty early...My question besides the absence of the holes for the bar are there any other differences? I thought they will all interchange with each other. Is it possible to drill the holes into an earlier set? It... MORE
Hi Lee, Tappet covers are located on the side of the block, underneath the manifolds. Single bolt holds them in place. Tappets can be removed without removing the cam on 948 anfd 1098 engines. The 1275 has no tappet covers, so the cam must be pulled first. Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33530... MORE
Can anyone help please? I have a 1098cc MG engine in my 1961 Mk I Frogeye Sprite and have just removed the head for fault analysis for a rattling noise. The Haynes manual (page 37) states there are tappet covers but they are not identified in the exploded view of the engine. Can anyone help to identify where the covers are? and Is it possible to remove the tappets without removing the cam? Many thanks for your help Lee lparke12@... 33529... MORE
Thanks for all the comments. Everyone was pretty musch right - it's the oil filter sensor wire and dash warning light. We had replaced thar damend old oil filter housing with a new spin-on and lost the reference. No sooner had I posted this message and ran back to the garage, my Dad figured it out. I'll be asking you guys soon for ideas on transporting the ol' A-H from El Paso to Dallas TX. We're just staring tomake plans, and so far folks like Uhaul haven't been very helpful (the A-H is too narrow for their auto transport).... MORE
Correcto, James C.! The earlier Austin(?) racks used oil, the later (Spitfire?) racks used grease. I am not knowing when the changeover occurred but I am sure we will hear from more learned folk! :) You can use grease in the earlier racks, however, in cold weather, the steering will become more difficult in tight quarters. Skipping the "zerk" entirely, it is possible to reasonably fill each boot by undoing one of the clamps to the gaitor(s) and squirting in oil with an oil gun. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33518... MORE
Try this link to the LUANN cartoon with the Bugeye. Very cool. http://www.unitedmedia.com/comics/luann/archive/luann-20040813.html Steve stevenm@... 33503... MORE
OK, Doug... You indeed have the higher compression 8.9-1 motor. Thought so. And you've done a bit of good work on it already, obviously. Here again, assuming the motor has done 77k "untouched" up to this point in time, then yes....personally I would pull the pan and REPLACE all the bearings (and oil pump) as part of preventive ("downline") maintenance as seeing as the motor is already out of the car. I mean, what better opportunity? :) Your assessment of the oil pump location, etc. is correct, Doug. Easy job at this point and sure, I'd renew the front... MORE
Hi Rob & Doug, Doing all you suggest, Rob is well and good, but those are items unrelated to any blow-by problems. That was seemingly the original problem. All your suggestions do is ensure that the lubrication system is top notch. Seems like a lot of work to do and completely skirt the initial issue. My rear seal kit will work with the crankshaft just being in good condition. BUT, If bearing clearance or blowby is excessive, it's not very effective. One or the other diminishes it to the point of why bother doing it. Later, Paul A "Paul... MORE
G'day Vince Were does this yellow/brown wire start and finish. That would help determine what it is for. But I think Chris might be correct - it's the oil filter warning light. Inside the oil filter housing is a spring-loaded ball bearing. When the filter gets blocked (cos you haven't changed it for 17 years) the pressure causes the ball bearing to move against the spring thus opening a by-pass passage for the oil. On the outside of the filter housing is a spade terminal. Power runs from the ignition circuit, through the light bulb behind the red light... MORE
Vince, I have the ring-bound British Leyland shop manual 10th ed. from 1970. It covers the Sprites Mk 2 - 4 and Midgets Mk 1 - 3. There are 8 different wiring diagrams covering the various U.S. and Brit versions over the years. On the two diagrams that most likely were for your car, I didn't see any YN anywhere - or on any of the others either, in case somehow you've got a newer wiring harness. FWIW, which ain't much, but thought I'd let you know at least. Hamondale "hamondale" 33482... MORE
Colin, I have a friend that races 210s in SCCA and I asked him about the transmission and reliability issues with it. The only comment was that the shift fork that was secured by a roll pin could be a problem. That was solved by using a bolt and loctite. I'm not exactly sure how much power he's making with the 210 engine but it's estimated to be 100 to 120 hp. He told me that the transmission was capable of handling 150 hp. I did not have to do any modifications to the heater box although some grinding... MORE
Did you manage to find the parts required for your friend in the Morris Club? R "Roger Stinson" 33459... MORE
G'day all Hopefully the last couple of questions before we dicide on which 5-speed kit to use. Whilst it seems everyone says "no modifications to the car are necessary", the Morriservice instructions state: "Underneath the heater box is a beam that needs to be altered some. Typically it needs to be moved up and back about 3/4 inch. Pounding it up and back with a hammer is the usual way." Well, if you ever tried to undo that damage, you would think that it was a modification. I questioned Paul A on this, and he replied: "This mod under... MORE
And what about the 5.1 to 1 ???? I have got one and its got a strange housing, no ribs in the outside and nothing to bolt the brake pipe to. Beckers 1330 "beckers" 33427... MORE
'73 Spridget? Should be (stock) a 3.9, David. Good luck in your search for the O-ring and copper washer you need, BTW. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33432... MORE
Hi David, To further this 4.22:1 dif. There were 2 types of them. Morris and Spridgets. The Spridget one is significantly more robust than the Morris difs. It's apparent when you see them side by side. The crown wheel of the Morris dif is a lot thinner than the Spridgets. They do bolt up exactly the same, though. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33435... MORE
Correct Bob, jack up one wheel and count the revolutions. But with a 4.2:1 diff, you need to rotate the wheel 76 times to 9 revs of the tailshaft. Ed and I have Oldtimer's disease and we lose track of the count before we get to 76. It takes us less time to remove it and fit a new one! avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 33400... MORE
Guy writes..."what is your road speed at 5,000 rpm" (in top gear). 'bout the same as the original early Sprites, Guy, so obviously Colin is more an autocross rather than highway kinda guy! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33404... MORE
Chris... There ARE disadvantages to "in trunk" mounting, no doubt about it. In both my past and current positions I have been trained to think worst case scenarios first and foremost. And I would not personally install a pump on the "inside" myself, for in event of accident, I personally would rather have it ALL "outside" the car, whether I had a "g" cutoff switch intalled or not. However....under normal circumstances, we are not talking the pressures of fuel injection. Leakage of any sort should be detected very quickly considering only pressboard separates the trunk from the cockpit and... MORE
David, The easy and fool proof way to tell is to make a mark on the axle and a mark on the prop shaft and turn the prop shaft until the axel makes exactly one revolution and count the number of turns of the prop shaft and bingo, you have the true number, no matter what numbers are stamped on parts. You can do it on the car if you like. Jack up one wheel, in neutral and turn it one rev and count the prop shaft revolutions... Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 33390... MORE
