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That copper stuff is okay for anti-sieze, as on threads, but don't use it in wheel bearings or suspension/steering parts. Any major brand of grease indicated for wheel bearings will be fine. The purists here may object, but any name brand of chassis grease will do fine in king pins and tie rod ends. Some like greases containing molybdenum sulfide, but I don't bother with it. You should use gear oil in the steering rack, however. Probably most important is to make sure everything is clean and greased before you put it back together. I once read an article... MORE
Hi guys Sorry for another naive question! Once I've got the bearings out of the hub, I'll be in a position to start reassembling the front suspension. This is a fairly general question, but what kind of grease/anti-seize compound should I be using to assemble the suspension? Actually thats two questions - What kind of grease should I be using to assemble the suspension components?, and what kind of anti-seize compound should I be using on threads and nuts? Generic 'types' would be most useful, as brand names tend to be meaningless if they're only available in the US.... MORE
Nigel, do you mean the oil seal or the grease cap/'welch plug'? The hole in the centre of the inner bearing is smaller than the actual oil seal, and is quite big enough to get a drift through. David "David Jacobs" 26480... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I don't think the splined part unbolts, I think its all in one. I'll have a go at destroying the oil seal, as I think this is what's causing all the problem, I suspect that with that oil seal out of the way, the bearing's will pop out quite easily. I admit to having used so far a length of timber as a drift (as I'm very concerned about scoring/damaging inside of the hub itself) and I don't think I'm getting enough 'whack' on it. I'll try destroying the oil seal, if that doesn't... MORE
Heya 'grumpy' : ) Thanks for your reply! Of course I have a ****ing shop manual but of course the ****ing shop manual only covers removing the bearing from a steel wheel hub and NOT a wire wheel one, hence my confusion as to which side it needs to come out of! To be honest, I think I might just hand it over to a garage and say 'You sort it out! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26478... MORE
David Thanks for the advice, but how do I actually drift the outer bearing out from the splined end, when I cant get a drift onto it, because the oil seal is in the way ? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26476... MORE
Frank Clarici Toms River, NJ Down to just a few Sprites http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut Frank Clarici 26491... MORE
Nigel, I just did this chore this summer and can pass on the following: To remove the bearing races you need a screw driver/hammer combo. The hub should have two shallow indentations just at the top of the bearing race to place the screw driver tip. Place the tip and tap firmly several times on alternate sides until the race begins to move. Point two. Just rip them greeze seels oucha there! Ya'll gonna hevta buy new 'uns anyhow. Rob C 75 Midget Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 26470... MORE
Nigel, the outer bearing should come out through the splined end, and since this is the smaller diameter, it's easier to do this one first, with a drift from the large diameter side.The large, inner comes out the brake disc side. If they are not moving at all, you can usually break up the bearings just leaving the outer races which you then VERY carefully grind through with a die grinder or similar. Regards David "David Jacobs" 26460... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I've removed everything except the bearing and seals. Which side? I've been trying to drift it out by inserting a drift from inside the splined hub part. I think its the oil seal thats not moving. I've been bashing away at it and it either hasn't moved, or its moved by about 0.5 mil. Any ideas how I can get it to move? I thought about heating up the end, but I'm very concerned about damaging anything. tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26459... MORE
All, I searched the archive but could not find a post and my local trans shop was no help. I just put a 5 speed datsun trans into my bugeye and am trying to locate info as to what oil to use and how much. Just guessing I'd say 30w std motor oil and about a quart. But more accurate information is always helpful. Thanks ken horner "pblock4x4" 26454... MORE
Hi guys Anyone know the process of getting the bearing out of a wire wheel front hub? I've tried but don't seem to be getting anywhere. tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26451... MORE
Yes... Bill Perry does favor the new synthetic oils as they are simply superior to the mineral oil based products, which BTW are pretty damn good themselves these days. Synthetic also allows for MUCH easier shifting of the box in cold weather, especially subsequent to initial start after the car has been sitting in freezing temps. overnight. However, their "slipperiness" and flow characteristics virtually guarantee that in all cases, you will either "lose" more or "burn" more in either event, the loss of synchronizer action in the gearbox already having been discussed. I had a minor leak in the... MORE
Nigel, You've removed the dust cover and the cotter pin (you call it something else) and the castleated nut, right? I believe you have to remove the caliper so the whole hub will slide off. Then you take a suitable drift and drive out the bearing from the other side. This is working from a 35 year old memory of having done this, but I'm sure I will be corrected if necessary. RH ...those idiots at the NRA, not only do they think the second amendment gives them the right to own guns, they think the first amendment gives... MORE
Hi, Bob.... Yes the return springs are installed I have new ones to put in. The butterflies have been modified per Vizard, I wonder if that might have anything to do with the problem. The fast idle screws are not even touching the cam. Something must be holding the butterfly open a little. Off come the carbs tomorrow. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26450... MORE
Bob, The accelerator cable is not connected as I am trying to synchronize the carbs. I have had a frayed cable years ago. I'll check the fast run screws. I hope that's the problem. The thought on the spring was that a stiffer spring assuming 4.5 oz/in would result in a higher load being applied to the piston for a given vacuum so the piston would not rise as far due to the load applied. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26448... MORE
Martyn... While there might be a slight change in power with great changes in altiude, this seems a "sudden" change according to your mails as well as one of great "extent" as well....at least this is the impression I am getting. So, I don't think the altiude difference accounts for the problem you are having, For things to suddenly change to this extent...I'd be looking for something pretty obvious like a frayed accelerator cable which can "hang up" in it's travel (just replaced my choke cable today for this very reason), etc. Wish I was there to see it... MORE
also make sure that the choke screws are clearing the choke cam so they are not holding your idle up. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26436... MORE
"Choke Screws".........Ahh, yes... Thank you Bob Webb...anyone else? Feel free to chime in....can't think of everything that might be causing this state of affairs!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26440... MORE
Listers, one and all. For the past few years we've had a group of enthusiasts gather in Madison WI (USA) for a bit of post-Thanksgiving turkey Sprite dismantling and/or rebuilding called Save Our Sprites. These "events" take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving (Nov. 28,29 this year) and are viewable over the internet through some video magic. (details later) We hope to improve that this year with faster service for better interaction. In the past, those who wanted to contribute, but couldn't attend, offered food and beverage from their locality. We've had some great variety from scrapple to... MORE
Bill, if you feel up to working out all that complicated geometry, for the mechanism, you might give it a go, but I should warn you Les Ireland and the Healey team spent YEARS perfecting that design! The packaway type from a '62 probably won't fit - the 'screen is different; one from a 64-66 would certainly fit the windscreen and door glass, though you'd have to do some serious modifcation to the rear of the cockpit area to get it to fit there. A better solution might be to admit defeat and get a roll bar that still... MORE
Martyn...you misunderstand. The spring over the air valve in the SU carb determines mainly when the air valve reaches the full open position with respect to "redline" assuming all other things equal. This is it's only purpose. As cam profile duration and lift increase (over "stock") so shall vacuum produced by the engine at lower rpms DECREASE. IOW......at lower rpm (idle) the engine will "suck" LESS, all else being equal. With respect to your problem, vacuum in this case is working FOR you, not against you. Make sure your throttle return springs are properly hooked up and that the... MORE
Frank Clarici Toms River, NJ Down to just a few Sprites http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut Frank Clarici 26432... MORE
Pete, Email address is joe@... phone numbers are 1(800) 4-BRASS-1 or 1(530) 283-1886 FAX: 1(530) 283-4845, web site www.brakecylinder.com Biff Jones '59 Bugeye, 'Kermit' '62 Sprite, 'Ole Gray' '71 Midget, 'Freebie' http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 26428... MORE
Martyn, You should be able to kill the motor by lowering the idle screws that hold the throttle plates open. The throttle plates are before the pistons and the only way the pistons will rise is if the throttle plates are open so springs won't do anything for idle - find out why - it is something basic. The throttle plates should close tight enough to hold liquid. Jon "jon paschke" 26430... MORE
