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Yep... Good quality speakers in hi-back seats is the way to go, for sure. Solves the "problem" except for guys like me who have a "personal problem" with hi-backs! :):) Then again, I never claimed to be the sharpest knife in the drawer. I personally dislike hi-back seats, despite their obvious spine and life saving qualities in certain types of "events".... because they block my peripheral vision, even moreso with the top in place. I hate this, to the extent I removed the headrests from my '74, converting the seats back to "lowbacks". I hate to have my senses... MORE
Hi I have also seen this. The carb ,air filters and breather system are all different,so to is the washer bottle is wrong.Makes me think what else has been changed Cheers Gordon Denson "Gordon Denson" 23793... MORE
..sounds like your rear leaf springs to axle u-bolts need to be tightened. The whole axle can easily shift up to 2-3 degrees off line with the road direction. Consider replacing the rubber pads under the mount points and check the u-bolt torque. Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 23795... MORE
Mike writes: "Maybe the beast is supposed to feel like a go kart going down the road" You got it...that's exactly right. But, not "wondering" down the road, assuming the surface is smooth. It should go exactly where YOU point it and NOT the other way 'round. It should never feel as though the "tail is wagging the dog". On rougher surfaces the car will "move" sideways in a controlled manner as it "skips" over rougher pavement but it should never "wonder" or feel "loose", despite the fact road shock may be transmitted to the steerng wheel. Any "wondering"... MORE
there are no service records available to compare service dates or milage so these are my conclusions based on my observations. Still and all, I was tempted to make an offer but this isn't a "new" car and I don't intend to lose $6K the moment I drive it from his driveway. He'll have to re-think his asking price before I make an offer. Sorry this is so long but I want to point out that low milage isn't everything when considering the purchase price of a LBC. Jim C 73 Midget 66 MGB "klutterbutt92530" 23787... MORE
Neil, I suspect the same thing happened with my switch. Was having the same problem (unable to remove the key), and after a while, was able to do so. In the process, must have caused the spring to break, and offset the contacts inside. In any event, it looks like a new ignition switch is in order. Good luck, Pete "Pete Skalski" 23783... MORE
G'day guys Just thought I would add my thoughts on the over/under heating problem. My race car has a radiator I had made about 7 years ago. 3 cores and it's so thick it has cut-outs to clear the steering rack mounts! On a 100 F day, I can't get it to heat up. I warm it to around 180 F in the pits, go out for a 10 lap race and come in at 170 F. I was recently asked by a customer to make a copy of the radiator for his car, so with 7 years now... MORE
Hello to all I now have the steering wheel, cowling, turn signal stem assembly and wiper assembly off the steering column. How is the switch removed? I can't find any screws, etc. holding it on. My Haynes manual says I should be able to turn the key to the on position, depress the button and remove the entire barrel assembly. It won't work that way!! I also can't get it to the complete off position to remove the key. The key is somewhat bent in the barrel so I am afraid to work it too hard. My first thought... MORE
"I would suggest....Datsun 5-speed" Food worth thought, IMHO. Yes...the 5 speed simply "transforms" the car....for sure! Peace and quiet of operation, fully synchro with slightly lower first three gears for xcellent acceleration, while retaining the normal 1-1 4th and engine/fuel saving "overdrive" 5th. And "rebuilt" boxi available for 1/2 the cost of "stock" box (not that you'll probably ever need one considering the HP/torque of the original 210 the box was designed for....but, in the event!:) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23777... MORE
Thought I'd share this with you - lovely little MKI Midget that looks in excellent condition and has definitely been looked after. If my garage wasn't full up with my current restoration I'd be after this for sure! Nigel http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2425257694&category =29757 "amukdigiphoto" 23754... MORE
Hi there suds lovers......... This is the 2nd of 3 notices of an informal get together of any interested people with in driving distance of San Diego. The first time will be this coming Friday, August 1st at 6:00 pm (or whenever) at the British pub the "Speakers Corner". It is located at 2664 Fifth ave. near Balboa park in mid San Diego. After visiting several pubs, "hic",I chose that one because of the ease of parking on the street, and it probably wont be as crowded as the other more popular places. The owner will extend us some... MORE
OK, let's try: Looks like a MKII or MKIII Midget according to the grille, bumpers and bonnet with chrome liner (non split rear bumper, thick bumpers, MG grille without the MG badge...). If you look at the seats....The early Midget MKII had a horse-shoe pattern seat, this changed later to the shown striped pattern. The missing chrome stripes at the sides and the Steering wheel horn butten might tell it's a Sprite. So my best guess: - 1966 MKII MG Midget, without side chrome stripes, and a non-original steering wheel It might even be an early Midget MKIII (1966/67).... MORE
Don It's extremely difficult to tell from those pictures the age or model, as by the looks of it, as you said, it has a mixture of parts from Sprites and Midgets on it, and you can't be sure what was original on that car. You have to make certain assumptions, and as this list has ably demonstrated in the past, assumptions are dangerous. It has a Sprite badge on the back, a Midget Grille on the front and Austin Healey Hub caps. If the boot handle is correct, this dates it to after October 1961 when it changed.... MORE
A follow up on the steering wheel lock clicking. The lock plunger knocking back and forth in the slot on the steering shaft formed sharp ridges on the top edges of the slot which when the steering shaft turned wore down the softer aluminum housing enough that the steel plunger was left slightly above the level of the surround housing and it was catching momentarily in the steering column slot as the steering shaft turned. I removed the steering column and rather than drill out the break off bolts took my Dremal tool and used a small thin cut... MORE
Geeze!! Is that all they went for back then, Bob... that's about what the price was of a big Healey back then??? But not too surprising when you actually think about it....considering it was an American car....one of the best all around values out there today has got to be the Corvette. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23719... MORE
If you do not have any repair manuals yet, you might start watching e-bay for some deals. You may not be planning on doing any major work, but they can certainly help with little annoyances. Do not be afraid to ask a question here. Many people will assume you know how to do things, but will certainly give more detail if you ask. We all want to keep as many spridgets on the road as possible. "Trevor Jessie" 23703... MORE
Thanks everyone for considering my Sprite that was for sale. A wonderful gentleman from Portland has purchased the car with a plan of finishing it. I was happy to hear that it will see the road again one day. You guys have been great and I will continue to drop by. Thanks. YK "yucholian" 23663... MORE
Take care, YK. Glad the Sprite found a good home...best of luck! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23664... MORE
Heh, heh!!! That's exactly what I said...Never Again and I ain't never done it again to this day!! It IS a helluvalot of work! This would not be the case for someone like our Frank Clarici or maybe Chuck Christ. Frank is a perfect example. The guy got his first Sprite from his Dad when he was a kid and has basically been working on them ever since. He's in his forties today. Hell, he's got 25 years of hands on experience with cars...specifically with spridgets. BUT..... he's also a builder. I know guys in town who are builders.... MORE
Tach should be reliable and reasonably accurate. You don't want a gen. drive tach, rare and expensive. Either get your tach. to an instrument specialist for a refurb. or pick up a secondhand one. Try cheking ebay. Jeremy "Jeremy Cogman" 23649... MORE
Show me a sprite/midget that doesn't have an oil leak !! "Beckers" 23611... MORE
Very rare bonnet built from 1961-1964 in Southern California one of only three known to be left, completely restored, all cracks fixed, new gel coat and painted red. This will fit all Sprites/Midgets (MKII+) with mods, or tilt forward replacement for bugeye. This bonnet was used for racing (have documents)and also comes with custom fabracated alum ducts for radiator and oil cooler. E-mail me for photos or check out my photos in the gallary. $1200.00 with documents including a signed letter from Sir Thomas Denner Contact: Mike Satterfield Email: michaelsatterfield@ hot mail.com Tel: 909-947-8099 Location: Ontario (Southern California) California... MORE
Easiest way I found was to centre punch the break bolt, drill the end with a suitable size drill and use a stud removal tool. It is rather like a threading tap, except that it has a VERY course and shallow left hand helix running down it which causes it to pull into and tighten into the drilled hole, where it lock and then carry on unscrewing until the bolt is out. It only took me about 7minutes to remove all the screws. R. "Roger Stinson" 23607... MORE
After stripping off the front end outer metal work and cleaning the engine compartment I discovered there is a crack in the transmission bell housing. The tab like area at the top of the clutch bell housing where the top two bolts are located has a horizontal crack below them.. It does not appear to be a major structural problem once the transmission bell housing is bolted on as all other areas and bolts are sound. It looks like an easy in place weld job. Is it possible to weld the aluminum housing material? Some PO strangeness as usual... MORE
to stop it engaging, you'll have to get the lock off the column - not an easy job - I've had to do it on 3 different cars :-( The easiest way is to get the column off the car completely and drill out the break-head bolts, though it's sometimes possible to use a sharp small centre-punch and unscrew the bolts by hitting the punch in the correct place. Once you've got the lock off, you can either mount it elsewhere so it doesn't engage with the column, weld a small plate over the slot in the column so... MORE
