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Hi, I am quite new to my 1967 1275 sprite and I think it may need a new muffler but I am not totally sure. How noisy should these cars be ? I know they have a distinctive rasping sound but this just seems too loud. Should they run quiet when idling? Thanks for any advice Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 26701... MORE
I have a 1967 Sprite that I just bought. The guy I bought it from swears that it was originally a negative earth. However, he only had it a few months and was not sure. Points leading to a negative earth; It is currently hooked up that way on the battery and the generator and fuel pump seem to work fine. There has also been an aftermarket radio installed. Why I think it was a positive earth: The Tach says positive earth (which is currently not working) and the VIN is more like a positive earth...HAN9L64745 Is there anything... MORE
Just a thought, use a standard, non nyloc nut first, to pull in the taper, remove the nut and put the nyloc nut on, torquing up to the correct value. Its a lot easier, provided you have the correct thread on the slave nut. R "Roger Stinson" 26668... MORE
the 'MAA' chassis number prefix is either a 1980 model Rolls Royce Phantom VI (honest!) or in BMC terms, the first character, M, is for Morris (we would expect G for MG or H for Austin Healey or A for Austin), the first A is strictly speaking a sub 1200cc engine (ie A series) and the second A is the body type (not sure what 'A' is - though it's definitely not a Spridget which would be N - 2 seat tourer) CKD cars assembled in Australia had different prefixes, (YGGN or YGN) so it's not one of those,... MORE
Martin, Those a not numbers used by Sprites or Midgets. You don't specify location of those tags either. You should post pictures of the car you have and I can give you a better idea. Also, depending on what I see, I can tell you where you may locate original numbers. You can post to the photos section of the Midget Sprite site ( http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/midgetsprite ) or send pix direct to pixelsmith@... Gerard "gerardchateau" 26662... MORE
Thank you Nigel, I am sure about the type of car (not an "early" midget or TC, J2 etc but a Midget/sprite type) however the numbers may not be accurate for the car and/or data incorrectly given. The car is in Africa where numbers/cars do not always die the way they were born, if you know what I mean, hence the question to the group. Best regards Martin "Martin Aubert" 26661... MORE
I had a lister a few months back as me about if I could help them get a bonnet/hood (the metal thing that covers the engine) for a non-Bugeye Sprite. I have forgotten that listers name. If you are in need of a bonnet still, contact me. So I will know who you are, I had mentioned a possible source, if you can tell me who that source was, I will know it is you. I know many folks out there are needing a bonnet minus the rust along the front of the nose. If you need one, send... MORE
Jeremy Yes, they are of the original type and use the castellated nut and split pin, which is why, as you say, I'm keen to re-use them! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26658... MORE
As they are old they are probably drilled for a split pin and castellated nut which is an incentive to use them. One of my real gripes is that the modern ones come with a nyloc. The accountant that made that decision has obviously never done the job himself. The threaded portion of the TRE does not offer enough rotation resistance to do up the nyloc yet there is no way to hold it other than by clamping the TRE to the steering arm with a heath robinson assemblage of old bits of wood and g clamps. Grrrrrr "Jeremy... MORE
I assume you mean the flange retaining nut is stuck rather than the seal itself. It's done up to about 150lbft so it is tight. I eventually got it undone by removing the diff from the axle casing and bolting it up in a vice. I then stuck a piece of wood through the diff so it couldn't turn. My girlfriend's dad then held the whole assembly as best he could while I attacked the nut with a breaker bar and a six foot length of tube, even then it was tight. My girlfriend's dad is a farmer and... MORE
Ed You do make me smile and that has to be a good thing :o) I took your advice and enlisted the help of a next door neighbour, and we tackled it together. Me holding the steering rack down and heating the nut and him whacking the locknut with a cold chisel. It still took about 20 mins of heating before it decided to move! The locknut on the other side was so seized solid, it decided to break in half before it would turn! No matter same result - both locknuts off an undamaged TRE's and tie rods.... MORE
Listers, The list of projects has grown. The list of attendees has grown. The likelihood that anything good will come of this has grown. To repeat: On November 28 and 29 (post Thanksgiving) there will be a gathering of enthusiastic Spridgeteers in Madison, Wisconsin with the intention of working on several projects on several cars. Some heavy stuff, some fiddley stuff. There will be some food and beverage provided, though the more the better. (hint hint) The event will be web-cast in some fashion. (WST's on that) It would help to have a fairly accurate head count. (please contact... MORE
I need to refurbish the steel wheels on my 1961 Mk 2 Sprite. I have completed the first one by elbow grease and it has been suggested to me that shotblasting would be a far easier way to get back to finish which is good enough for painting. Does anyone have any guidance on this from experience? I have been quoted around =A38 per wheel (tyre can remain on the wheel during the process) Tim "timandshelagh" 26637... MORE
They are so cheap and last so long (I've done about 150k miles in my Sprite and replaced four I think, two of those recently) that it's really not worth getting excited about. BMW owners spend more on one pollen filter than you will on track rod ends if you keep the car for ever "Jeremy Cogman" 26634... MORE
no, ours are centre-laced (look at a TC's wheel for example of outside laced) It's difficult to compare the offset on centre-lock wires, because they don't have the same flat face that a bolt-on wheel has, as a datum point. Do Dayton say where they are measuring from? And will they exchange them/refund your money, if they don't fit? The 'direct replacement' 4.5"ers aren't exactly the same as stock, as stock are 4", so you are already starting off from a different position. I think the only foolproof way is to check them on the car, with tyres on,... MORE
"Is it just me?" No Alan East-Jones, it's not. I have no interest in guns and beer, fr'instance. But I sure don't mind others swapping mails over these subjects at all. Usually because of the well intended humor in them I read them anyway. I like the "people aspect" of the contents. The English on the whole see their club activities (moreso than Americans) as a social event with the "objects" taking less of a priority over the "humans". I am this way fr'instance and thus, belong more "over there" than "here", in this particular respect. Others (fewer rather... MORE
Alan I've got this far without a nut splitter, I think I'll persevere without one, and hold it back as a last resort. Thanks again for the advice. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26611... MORE
threads. If compensate and reach the UTS of the bolt , However on the LBCs the factor of safety built in to most bolt sizes and quantities far exceeds the mechanical strength that the joint actually needs. Alan "Alan" 26604... MORE
Inspect the rod bearings closely and make sure you didn't overlap one...BTDT. RH ...those idiots at the NRA, not only do they think the second amendment gives them the right to own guns, they think the first amendment gives them the right to free speech!...unknown. rbhouston@... 26613... MORE
Nigel, et al Nut splitters do work , if you don't buy cheap ones , low cost is good - ch eap is not. Same with all tools really. When replacing track rod ends etc there's nothing wrong with using a small amount of anti seize grease or LM (Low Melting temp.) (I like LM10 )I also use WD40 if the thread is trapped at each end and is virtually air tight so the WD40 doesn't evaporate. It's the mechanical stretching of the threads that lock parts together. An excellent article by a BMW owner association member ( the... MORE
2 other options to remove the lock-nut: - Dremel with a cut-off wheel: cut the nut partially on two sides, then use a chissel (used this technique often by now with 100% success without damaging any threads!) - Weld a long bar to the nut I prefer the first option. It will cost you 1 or 2 cut-off wheels, but will be succesfull. Even if you accidently cut a bit to deep, it probably makes so little damage to the threads you won't have to replace the damaged part. Good luck, Eeg. Eeg.Oberije@... 26599... MORE
Is it just me , or has anyone else noticed a distinct lack of LBC content o ver the last week ? I thought this is what the LBCnonLBC site was set up for. Somewhere for LB C owners to discuss , flame, joke, insult etc with other LBC folk. One can be member of more than one group ya know.!!! Or just head it NO LBC as I thought was agreed by a majority !!!! Alan (once chastised for a posting with lack of direct LBC content !!!!!) - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Nut splitters are very effective (well mine are anyway) and not expensive. Only trouble is you'll only get one on if you can get the TRE off. "Jeremy Cogman" 26598... MORE
Hey, I could be reading this wrong but I think this job is a three wrench/vise thing. You must hold the tie rod in the vise - a wrench on the tie rod end and then a wrench to break free the lock nut. The lock nut locks the end not the rod. Get what I mean? Jon That's how I do it anyway. I've got this far without a nut splitter, I think I'll persevere without one, and hold it back as a last resort. Thanks again for the advice. Nigel "Jon Paschke" 26614... MORE
Jeremy Thanks. The whole steering rack is off the car, which I guess is whats causing part of the problem. I'll ponder the cutting a slot in the nut when I really do resign failure! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26592... MORE
