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i think there is a mg show at epsom this sunday the 27th at epsom racecourse in surrey just thought you would like to list it on the events page thanks adrian "david jones" 25539... MORE
ahummm... Wasn't it a special bolt for the shock mountings regarding the amount of thread? I thought to remember that it only has some thread at the end (1 inch or so). So not really something of the shelf (regardless of the strength)....or can the original ones be replaced by full length threaded bolts without consequences??? Regards, Eeg. Eeg.Oberije@... 25538... MORE
Well, I'll say this: The suspension and other mechanical components were designed a half century ago, and I am unaware of any widespread failures due to underspecification of fasteners. The state of design at that time (no computers) meant that many things were overengineered. I suspect that is true of the fasteners. It is also true that modern grade 8 bolts are *probably* stronger than what was available at that time. If it were my car, I'd have no qualms about using grade 8 in any application except internal engine parts. If you can't sleep with that, you can... MORE
Gentleman, At the risk of taking this discussion in a new area I would ask only this. What the hell do I do now? I've gone and replaced stock fasteners with Grade 8 on driveshaft and other hardware in the possibly mistaken belief that Grade 8 was Great. Do I go back and replace, say prayers, die in a wreck? Anxious for enlightenment. Rob C '75 rolling threat? robbiesg@... 25531... MORE
Okay, ED - Here's the story: Grades 5, 8, etc are American designations which were never used in England. I don't know, and you don't either, what strength bolts and in which applications were used in cars of long ago. Maybe some of them were not very strong, but I can assure you that some were very strong. They were often not marked since their use was controlled by part number, and one would have to refer to the parts drawings and the old British Standards to find out exactly what they were. That said, bolts in critical safety-related... MORE
If you can pull the tube oout with the nut tightened, that is your problem. There should be a ferrule in the end of the tube that the nut holds but compression. You probably need news fuel feed lines between the jet and the float. I think the jet comes with these as an assembly. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25528... MORE
I have been watching this thread, and have missed where the oil is coming from. I had a problem with my Bugeye (1275) a while back in that it was cold and I was putting 20/50 oil in. The oil was right, but the tempature was too cold and the oil was too thick to go back down the pushrod holes. I found a leak at the back of my valve cover, and I had "OIL, OIL Everywhere" Since he says that his engine is cold, and he just bought the car, I am wondering, 1. did you change... MORE
Nope. Grade 8 is stronger is tension and in shear. BTW, there are plenty of grade 8 and stronger bolts in old cars. They just aren't marked as such. Don't believe that? Okay, torque up some grade 5 rod bolts in your (pre 1980) L88. Can you say "bang"? "Jeffrey Holmes" 25521... MORE
Nope. grade 8 is heat treated alloy steel. It is not stainless. It is stronger in all directions than grade 5. Every car uses bolts of grade 8 and stronger, in many areas. "Jeffrey Holmes" 25520... MORE
I made my statement...and I usually never reply a second time... but regardless of what 'tach' manuals say... I'll stick to 'real life' experience and training anytime. And as someone else just mentioned... the 'grade 8' most mention these days did not exist 'way back when' Oh..and to whom ever mentioned grade 8 and something about crank main and rod bolts. I will blatantly say you're WAY off. Head bolts/studs, crank and rod bolts are not 8. they are usually SDF and CHQ grade as even grade 8 is below aircraft quality and by spec is allowed to contain... MORE
"I think the jet comes with these as an assembley" They most certainly do Gerard, together with the little rubber washer/grommet, etc. as I just replaced a jet myself, today. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25529... MORE
I finally got fuel flow up to the carbs but the front jet is leaking where it threads into the float bowl. I tightened it but it still leaks the tube can be pulled out of the nut even when tight. Is there anything that can be done or is it time for new jets? This engine better start right away or else! Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25526... MORE
Jeff... I don't think saving bucks was ever this lister's priority...and you actually confirm this considering the very minor difference in cost between 5's & 8's. Rather... .I think he's looking for the "right" or "best" bolt to use and is looking for sound advice from someone who "knows" what factory original was in these respects. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25524... MORE
Check out the Midget and Sprite Club classifieds at: http://www.mgcars.org.uk/midgetspriteclub/clubmarketnew.html "Jeremy Cogman" 25516... MORE
Whoa, whoa.... One cannot be too careful out there but even if one is doing everything right, Vern, fate and circumstances beyond one's control CAN rule the day. Not familiar with this particular piece of macadam but am familiar with like roads around Bear Mountain, Aiderondacks, NY upstate CT and ME, NH and VT. Just the place to be on a sunny, reasonably warm day traveling top down in a LBC, for sure. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25508... MORE
So guys.... Which grade of bolt should our questioning lister be using??? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25507... MORE
Don, Beware. I had a Midget with a similar modified push rod which I didn't know about. I installed a new 3 piece clutch kit and everything was fine for about 3 months until the thrust bearing went bang. New bearing .. went bang again. What has actually happened was that the thrust bearing operating fork has bent. This is not easy to see unless you have two of them side by side. This meant that the thrust bearing was no longer hitting the exact centre of the clutch leading to premature wear. Inspect all part carefully ! Regards... MORE
Well Don May.... The crankcase takes incoming air from the charcoal cannister through a "graduated orifice" feed tube mounted on the valve cover, assuming the valve cover has a non-vented oil filler cap. The "exhaust" side would be the hose coming from the cannister on the timing case cover which vents into the intake system via individual hoses which feed a "graduated orifice" within each carburator. In this instance, while the engine is running, Kevin removed the oil filler cap and noticed no vacuum or pressure. So even though Kevin states the individual hoses to each carb appear pinched,... MORE
When I replace my front shocks, are grade 5 mounting bolts strong enough or should I buy grade 8 bolts? Nelson 62 Sprite "witstock7" 25480... MORE
Looks like the kind of area that Spridgets were made for. Somehow I doubt that the 25 mph recommendation was followed. Nelson 62 Sprite in too many pieces "Nelson Wittstock" 25465... MORE
Just checked my Haynes which is what I'd have followed during my rebuild. No specific order to retightening but what it does day is do the bolts up finger tight then rotate the crankshaft a few revolutions before torqueing down. The other thing to check is that you don't have any grit under the shells. However as all is fine with the old TWs then it sounds like the only problem is the new TWs are a bit thick. When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like... MORE
They only go in from 1 side. I found that a hair dryer to heat the plexaglas so it was very hot and then I used a couple of putty knifes/paint scrapers to carefully slide the top edge in the middle of the frames. The putty knives also work well to place the felt in a U shape in the frames. The Bugeye front window doesn't slide. Bob, Troutdale, OR 60 Bugeye "Robert Webb" 25463... MORE
When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like that may overheat those new TWs and they might finish up in a worse state than your known good ones. Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for... MORE
I am restoring a '59 sprite and am having a lot of trouble replacing the perspex side screens and also the felt that they sit on.How do you put this felt in place? I have already broken 1 pair of replacement screens ,can anyone help? "roderick_ralph" 25442... MORE
Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for them to be too tight. Are you using standard or overside thrust washers? They are marked for size on the backside. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25439... MORE
